TABLE OF CONTENT
Silicate, Phoshate, and the Minimum Set of Test Kits
Phosphate
Silicate
Nitrite and Nitrate
Test Strips
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Silicate and Phosphate are nutrients of different
kinds of bad algaes and they can be removed
by adding Silicate Remover and Phosphate
Remover corresponding. These two are the
other chemcial levels that you must keep
an eye on besides the usual nitrite, nitrate,
etc. Silicate should be gone once the cycle has
been properly established. Phosphate will
come back again if the pH level is low.
In the long - run, you should have a set
of test kits to constantly monitor your tank
and to identify the problem once you see
something is wrong in your tank. Unfortunately,
there are too many test kits in the market
and they are all useful. (It is unfortunate
because it is expensive to get the complete
set.)
However, we want to recommend you a minimum set of
test kits: Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, and Alkalinity. This minimum set, of course, does not give
all the information for you to find out the
cause of problem in your tank. But they are
good enough to maintain your fish tank.
If you are getting corals later on, then
it is necessary for you to add a few more
test kits to give the basic parameters. If
you are interested and ready for a reef tank,
you will need other test kits, such as the
Calcium and Magnesium, etc.
Phosphate
Phosophate are set free in the decomposition
of plants, and other dead micro-organisms. (Remember the nutrient bombs issues.)
What may not be commonly known is that there is a pool of phosphate present
in the tank at all time. The phosphate molecules are commonly
found in water in the form bound to the other chemicals. The interesting point
is that the pool of phosphate is inversely related
to the pH level in the tank. That is, more
phosphate molecules are released if the pH
level is low than if the pH level is high.
Since phosphate is an essential nutrient
to algaes, the release of the phosphate molecules
will result in an uncontrolled growth of
algaes. This gives another reason for you
to monitor your pH level closely. (Fortunately,
phosphate molecules can be removed effectively
by protein skimming.)
Phosphate Test Kit
Above is a picture of a Phosphate test kit
from SALIFERT. You can see the 2 chemical
solutions that you will need to do the test.
The general testing procedure is very easy.
Add the required amount of your water into
the plastic container (the top one) and mix
it with the chemicals. Wait for the water
to change its color and match the result
with the color chart shown.What we want to show you here is that as you can see it is very difficult to tell
your result when you try to match the
water
sample with the color chart provided. This is the major drawback of this and
many other similar kinds of test strips.
First, they are complicated to use.
Second,
it is difficult for you to tell the
result
of the test by matching the colors
of your
result and the color chart. This can
really
damage the the accuracy of your test.
Phosphate Remover
As you have probably known, silicate and
phosphate are chemicals that will show up
in your initial water tests when you just
set up your tank.
Let us review about Phosphate brieftly here.
What is it? Why do you want to remove it?
Phosophate is simply one of the nutrients
that are set free in the decomposition of
plants, and other dead micro-organisms. What
is different between Phosphate from Silicate
is that there is always a pool of phosphate present in your tank. The interesting
thing is that the pool of phosphate is inversely
related to the pH level in the tank. That
is, more phosphate molecules are released
if the pH level is lower than before. Since phosphate is an essential nutrient
to algaes, any extra phosphate in your tank
leads to an uncontrolled growth of algaes. If you have an effective protein skimmer,
the excess phosphate can be removed
as one
of the nutrients by the skimmer. This
is
because phosphate usually combines
with other
chemcials when it is dissolved in the
water.
However, if the pH level has not been
set
such as in the case of setting up a
new tank,
the 2 phosphate remover products can
be quite
handy.
Silicate

Silicate (SiO2) are most commonly encountered in setting
up a new marine tank. Silicate is the nutrient
of a type of algae called diatoms. Diatoms
make use of silicate molecules to construct
their cell walls. As a result, excess silicate
leads to a bloom of diatoms in the tank.
The diatoms are usually not a problem once
the biological cycle is established and the
other types of algaes dominate the tank.
Thus, we see that the diatoms, in fact, are
constantly competing with the other algaes,
such as the red and brown algaes for the
dominant position. Excess silicate that leads
to the diatoms dominating in the tank discourages
the normal growth of the other good algaes.
Remember algaes are good for photosynthesis
and partly responsible for the chemical decomposition
in the tank.
Nitrite (NO2-) and Nitrate (NO3-) are correspondingly the immediate and the
end products of the Nitrification process.
Nitrification process, if you remember, is
the process of turning ammonia and ammonium
into nitrite and nitrate and they are also
nutrients to algaes. However, nitrite does
impose a more serious threat than nitrate
in that a high concentration of nitrite inhibits
the nitrification process and nitrite poisoning
can generate respiratory difficulty for your
fishes. This can easily kill your fishes.
Test Strips
As you can see that most of the test kits
available are quite complicated and tedious
to use. The test kits that you see so far
on this page usually has 3 to 5 different
chemicals that you must mix with during the
test. In fact, you can do better than this!
Below is a picture of such a product:

The first four on the left are different
test strips for pH, Alkalinity, Nitrate,
and Nitrite. The other two are eliminators.
The eliminators are to be used when the result
of your tests showing that one, or more,
of the chemical levels have been exceeding
what it should be. To preform the test, all you need to do
is to dip the end with chemical on it into
the water and hold it for a few seconds and
wait for the chemical to turn its color once
you have taken it out of the tank. The results
are quite accurate and the colors are quite
easy to distinguish. If you have used any test kits before, you
know that it is sometimes quite difficult
to match the color of the test result with
the color chart included in the test kit.
These test strips have also solved the problem
for you. Because of these two advantages,
they have become the most popular test kits
in our shop!
© Wai's Aquarium Ltd, 2000, 2001. All rights
reserved.
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